How artificial turf is installed, step by step

A proper install removes the sod, grades the area, lays and compacts an aggregate base, rolls out the turf, glues the seams, anchors the edges, spreads infill and brushes the blades upright. Thornton's permit spec of a base at least 3 inches deep is a handy benchmark.

Updated November 11, 2026

What happens on install day

Most of a turf job is ground work. Rolling out the grass is the quick, visible part. The rest decides whether the surface stays flat and drains for years.

The steps below follow a typical residential job. Where numbers help, we use the City of Thornton's artificial turf permit packet, a published standard you can check yourself. Your installer's process may differ, so ask.

Step 1: remove what is there

Existing sod, weeds and debris come out first. Thornton's rules require sod removal before turf goes in. Ask any installer how they prepare the ground. If you are replacing old turf, see removal and replacement.

Step 2: grade and plan drainage

The crew shapes the ground so water has somewhere to go, then marks the edges and any slope. Water that sits under turf causes soft spots and, on pet yards, odor. Tell your installer where water collects after rain.

Step 3: lay and compact the base

Crushed aggregate goes down in layers and is compacted until firm. Thornton's rules call for at least 3 inches of compacted aggregate that can hold 0.5 inch of precipitation. Some installers add a fabric layer between soil and aggregate. Ask whether yours does.

A thin or loose base saves money on day one. It is also a likely cause when a lawn ripples or settles later.

Step 4: roll out and cut the turf

The turf is unrolled over the base, left to settle and trimmed to the edges. Direction matters. Blades lean one way, so pieces are laid with the lean matching across seams. That keeps the lawn looking even from the house.

Step 5: join the seams

Pieces are joined with seam tape and adhesive. Thornton requires glued seams, not sewn ones. A good seam disappears once the turf is brushed. A poor one opens or shows a line.

Step 6: anchor the edges

Edges are fastened to a border, to concrete or into the base. Wind, dogs and kids cannot lift a corner that is anchored, and Thornton's spec calls for anchored edges. On dog yards, watch fence lines. Diggers find any gap.

Step 7: infill and brushing

Infill, usually sand or a specialty material, is worked into the pile. It weighs the surface down and helps the blades stand. Pet yards often use odor-control infill. Power brushing finishes the job. See the pet turf odor guide for infill options.

Can you do it yourself?

Some people do. Tutorials are easy to find. The hard parts are grading, compacting a level base and making seams you cannot see, and each takes tools and practice. If you hire out, use our installer checklist to compare quotes.

Common questions

How long does a turf installation take?

It depends on size, access and base work. Your installer should put a schedule in the written estimate.

Can turf be installed over existing grass or dirt?

Sod comes out first, as Thornton's rules require. A compacted aggregate base then goes over the prepared soil.

Why does base depth matter?

The base keeps the surface flat and lets water drain. Thornton's spec of at least 3 inches of compacted aggregate is a good benchmark.

Sources

Checked November 11, 2026. Laws, programs and prices change, so confirm with the source before you decide.

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